Lift Flower Bulbs

Why Lift Flower Bulbs?

Gardeners lift flower bulbs, corms, tubers, and rhizomes for two reasons. First, we lift flower bulbs that will not overwinter safely in the fall so that they can be replanted in the spring for next year’s bloom. Second, we lift flower bulbs when the plant is producing more foliage than flowers, so that it can be divided and replanted. Also See: Flowers

Contents 1 Why Lift Flower Bulbs? 2 Which Bulbs to Lift? 2.1 hardiness 2.2 division 3 How to Lift Flower Bulbs 3.1 when 3.2 digging 3.3 cleaning 3.4 drying 3.5 storage 4 Related Articles

Which Bulbs to Lift?

hardiness

Summer-blooming and fall-blooming bulbs have to be lifted in areas with cold winters. You could, of course, treat them as annuals and buy new bulbs next spring, but that is quite expensive. Also, you can’t be sure that you will be able to buy your favorite cultivar again, since garden centers do not always sell the same varieties every year.

Each bulb has its own specific level of cold tolerance, so you should check the bulb’s requirements with your supplier or ask local gardeners which bulbs to lift. Typically, calla lilies, canna, gladioli, elephant ear, dahlia, and similar bulbs and tubers have to be lifted in zone 6 or colder, but local conditions can vary.

If you are growing bulbs that require a cold period to bloom, like tulips, and you live in a warm climate, you will have to lift the bulbs so that they can be artificially chilled. Wait until the foliage withers before lifting the bulbs so that they can store enough nutrients for next year’s bloom.

Bulbs that have been grown in containers are usually lifted and stored. It is possible to overwinter bulbs still in the pot, but remember that they will feel the cold far more than bulbs in the ground because of their elevated, exposed location.

division

After a bulb has been in place for two or three years, it is common to see fewer flowers and more foliage. This may means that the bulb has exhausted the soil nutrients in that spot, or it may mean that the bulb has created many smaller bulbs, none of which is big enough to flower yet. You can’t tell if a bulb has increased by looking at the foliage, so you will need to lift the bulb.

How to Lift Flower Bulbs

when

Most flower bulbs, corms, tubers, and rhizomes should not be lifted until the foliage has withered and the bulb is dormant, at least six weeks after flowering. Summer-flowering bulbs and tubers are usually not lifted until after the first hard frost has left the foliage blackened and withered. The frost seals the tissue of the foliage and helps prevent fungus diseases.

A few plants, like Winter Aconite (Eranthis), Snowdrop (Galanthus Nivalis), and Snowflake (Leucojum), prefer to be lifted “in the green”, but they are the exception. They are usually lifted right after flowering and replanted as soon as possible after division.

digging

Use a garden fork with blunt tines to gently probe under the bulbs and lift them out of the ground. You could use a spade or pitchfork, but you are far more likely to cut into a bulb when using these tools.

If you are lifting different kinds of bulbs, or bulbs with different colors, be sure to keep them separated after you’ve taken them out of the ground. It’s very easy to mix bulbs up, and you may end up with surprises in your garden next year if the bulbs aren’t correctly identified.

cleaning

Many gardeners use a garden hose to rinse the bulbs clean as they lie on the ground. Others move the bulbs to a workbench and brush away the soil still clinging to them

Cut off the leaves with a sharp garden knife, and trim the roots. You can also gently brush off any dried “skin” on the surface of the bulb.

Throw away any bulbs that are damaged or diseased. Soft bulbs should not be saved.

If the bulb has small ‘bulblets’, or offsets, gently pull them loose. If you replant them next year, they will grow larger. Most offsets need two or three seasons of growth before they are mature enough to bloom.

drying

When the bulbs are clean, spread them on a drying rack, far enough apart so that no bulb is touching another one. A baker’s cooling rack or an old window screen set on blocks work well for this task. Let the bulbs dry for a day or two in a dry, well-ventilated area. Be sure they don’t freeze.

After the bulbs or tubers have dried, dust them with a fungicide. It’s easiest to apply the fungicide powder with a soft paintbrush.

storage

Bulbs should be stored in a cool, dry location. A place that stays about 45° F is ideal. Many gardeners store bulbs in an unheated basement.

You can place bulbs in burlap bags, net produce bags, or even old pantyhose and hang them from the ceiling, so that they have good air circulation and won’t get moldy. Alternatively, you can layer them in dry peat moss, vermiculite, or clean, dry sand in a paper bag or a cardboard box.

Check the bulbs occasionally over the winter, and throw out any that have become soft or moldy. Don’t worry if they’re shriveled and dry! They’ll be ready to plant in the spring.

Related Articles

• Planting Bulbs
• Bulbs in Containers
• What Is a Hardiness Zone?
• Elephant Ear
• Forcing Bulbs

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